Footloose and stress-free at Ananda in the Himalayas in India

Lulu Townsend reviews a Stress Management Programme in the Himalayas, where she discovers the joys of quality sleep, sublime reflexology and her younger self

It was a bumpy evening ride from Dehradun airport to Ananda in the Himalayas and I arrived with a heaviness that has engulfed me over the last few years; bereavement from the death of my father and father-in-law, divorce and the added stress of two house moves. It would be an understatement to say that I arrived sleep deprived, and emotionally depleted; my arthritic knees craving much-needed care and attention. 

As I arrived, dinner was being served in the restaurant, which was buzzing with the chatter of guests of varying ages and nationalities, some single, some travelling with friends, and couples. The atmosphere was so convivial I immediately felt myself start to relax, realising I was here to be looked after. My first meal was a wholesome vegetarian feat (the sticky aubergine was sublime) and then it was time to retreat to my bedroom for views of the Himalayas and an early night.

Ananda is a place to integrate and absorb all the ancient wisdom that India has to offer, rather than simply a place to lose weight or get better

My room was spacious, decorated in soft, neutral colours with a large marble bathroom with bathtub overlooking the surrounding hills and valley, and a huge shower. Ayurvedic therapies - including tongue scraper, nasal oil, foot oil and sesame oil to draw toxins from your mouth - were left in the bathroom for me to use during my stay.

Each night a hot water bottle appeared in my bed, as if by magic, as well as a nightly quote and healthy snack. The other lovely touch at Ananda is that they leave two pairs of white cotton pyjamas (in your size which they have taken from your pre-arrival questionnaire) in your room; very few clothes are needed during your stay here as you float around in these comfy PJs most of the day and before you know it, you’ll be heading to the shop to buy a pair, or two or three to take home!

The core values at Ananda are focused on ayurveda - a natural system of medicine, which originated in India more than 3,000 years ago. Based on the results of my questionnaire, it didn’t surprise me to learn that I was to be doing the Stress Management programme and my ayurvedic dosha (body type) is vata, a combination of the elements of space and air. I was to be on the vata menu, overseen by Dr Naresh Perumbuduri, a senior ayurveda physician.

Food is always an important part of any experience when travelling and, as I was handed a set menu at breakfast, lunch and supper, it was very liberating not having to choose what to eat. Completely customised, incredibly there are more than 10 different menus for the programmes at Ananda, in addition to the nutrient-rich à la carte menu. For the vata dosha, the focus is on cooked whole foods which are grounding, soft in texture, rich in protein and fat, and seasoned with a variety of spices. 

Day one was a gentle integration into my programme with stretching hatha yoga, and a meeting Dr Naresh. Much to my delight he advised me that I needed to have at least one massage a week on my return home (note to self). Each treatment at Ananda begins with a blessing, foot bath and a ritual and my first was Abhyanga, a synchronised four-handed massage – ideal for working out knots after travelling. 

Day two started with group meditation but much as I tried, I couldn’t relax my mind, especially as we were strictly told we weren’t able to move. I blame the magical sound of bagpipes being played somewhere in the grounds, which I found difficult to ignore. Vedanta (ancient Indian spiritual teachings) was next followed by an all-important meeting with chef Arun who took me through the various options for the vata dosha – to balance this body type oily, heavy and moist foods with tons of sweet, sour and salt need to be added to the diet. Ananda’s philosophy is described as ‘to eat is a necessity, but to eat intelligently is an art’. 

My wow factor at Ananda was the end of the day session of reflexology by Krishna. As a qualified reflexologist (no longer practising), reflexology is the one treatment I always book whenever possible when travelling. Krishna’s energy flowed through her intuitive hands which danced across every inch of my feet, smoothing out the blockages along the way. Finally, I had found ‘my’ reflexologist; I would almost get on a flight to Ananda just to be treated by her. 

Sadly, my endorphin high was not to last. By day three I felt drained, irritable, and low; clearly the detox was stronger than I had realised. I mentioned this and the staff reassuringly advised me that day three is often the lowest point of any of the programmes and the only way is up! Bolstered by the delicious vegetables, fresh juices and sleep infusions made with herbs from the garden, I was bounding with energy on day four, ready to take on the world. 

Emotional Healing is relatively new at Ananda and was a welcome addition to my programme. I headed into Shikha’s room rather sceptical with a stubbornness to surrender. Resistance was futile however, and the regression therapy was transformational and liberating. Did I cry? Of course, I did! It was just the release I needed to start peeling off the feelings of guilt and grief that had been clinging to my every cell; it was a journey of discovery to meet my younger self. 

Time goes quickly at Ananda, and my last day loomed with a plethora of treats and massages, the perfect ending to a rich and immersive week of self-discovery. 

Ananda has given me a first aid kit for life: the grief I felt on arrival has been softened, my arthritis soothed, and my emotions were on an even keel. Back home, I have found it easy to integrate what I learnt into my everyday life. Ananda should not be looked at as a place to diet and lose weight but should instead be seen as ‘a way of life’, and a place to integrate and absorb all the ancient wisdom that India has to offer. 

Lulu Townsend

Freelance and free-living Suffolk-based global explorer and writer. Catapulted her parents’ Umbrian hotel into global travel magazines before starting her own boutique hotel marketing brand from her garden shed. Has her own travel column, and contributes to the likes of House and Garden and Dossier. Her passions roar like a lion, but she finds quiet nature the ultimate antidote to modern living.

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