Finding a new skin at Terme di Saturnia in Italy


Catherine Fairweather writes:

It is all about the waters; stripping and stepping into a steaming lake, as warm as a baby’s bath is, to slough off layers of dead skin, and thick pelts of stress and worry. Thermal soaking induces a kind of stupefaction, both an existential and a physical pleasure. Friday is late-night closure, when through the sulphurous wisps of steam spiralling into the chill November air, I tiptoe into the enticing giant bubbling cauldron, reach for a ‘noodle’ float for my neck and watch the full-moon flirt with the scudding clouds. Gelatinous strands of algae drift past, anti-ageing manna for the regulars, who smear this fermented bio plankton over their faces and arms. A twenty-minute soak is recommended, followed by a shoulder massage under the ‘waterfall’ and a rest in the hay room, before falling into bed for the sound sleep of the innocent with ‘a new skin to dress a renewed soul’ thereafter, as the spa mantra promises.


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Catherine Fairweather

Former travel editor for Bazaar and Porter magazines. As an inveterate traveller, contributes to Conde Nast Traveller, The Financial Times and Airmail, among others. Podcast host of The Third Act and Voices from the Frontline. Loves going on pilgrimages, which have taken her to lesser known holy places, sacred mountains and the unsung Edens of the world. 

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